I've got an 05' 6.0 crew cab, long bed SRW F-350 weighing in at a conservative 8,000 lbs including fuel, passengers, and gear.
I just got back from just shy of a 1,000 mile trip and I calculated the MPG as follows:
Leg 1: 362 miles to destination, filled 23.5 gallons = 15.4 MPG. I was missing a round trip to work before I started the trip counter so ~75 miles but no certain number.
Leg 2: Cruising around at sea level using cruise control at [30, 40, 50, 60] mph but mostly on the lower end of that. 608 miles on trip meter -> 608-362=246 miles traveled, took 13.1 gallons to top off. 246/13.1=18.8 MPG
Leg 3: Return home: 978 miles on trip meter -> 978-608=370 miles traveled, took 19.8 gallons to top off. 370/19.8=18.7 MPG
or a total MPG rating of: 978/(23.5+13.1+19.8)=17.34 MPG.
Full disclosure, I drive with the cruise control on as much as possible and I don't really pass unless people are driving like complete morons.
What is your MPG like?
Does 17 MPG imply that the previous owner may have set the truck to run a mild tune?
Hello my brother just bought a 6.0 powerstroke that had a destroyed injecter in cylinder #2 bought a new oem injecter replaced number 2 now when it running it will run fine tell you give it throttle it will puke diesel out the exhaust. Does anyone know what it could be it has a constant 60 psi of fuel pressure
Trucks shaking at idle, and the sound of the truck sounds like it’s cammed or somthing. Anyone have any ideas?
06 f450 6.0. First remanufactured motorcraft pump was sucking air and of course was worse than before. Second new pump doesn't suck air but there is absolutely no power steering and the brakes sort of work if you jab the pedal with your heel. Did the proper procedure with lifting the front wheels with engine off going full lock left and right a few dozen times while pumping brakes. The issue before the replacement was no power steering at a complete stop but completely fine with even a little speed.
Hey everybody, recently I've been looking into buying a truck before I leave for college and have found a few 6.0 F250's and 350's for sale. I've fallen in love with the looks of these early 2000's F series trucks but, as with any vehicle, I've been hearing about reliability nightmares with the 6.0's oil cooler, EGR cooler, head studs, fuel injection control module, and water pump. I don't plan on using the truck for any sort of heavy hauling I'm really only looking to use the truck to occasionally haul my motorcycle, tow light trailers (think small Uhaul box trailer), and commute/travel in. The heaviest thing I'd probably pull would be my Jeep (under 3k pounds/1360 Kg) on a trailer. So my question is is the 6.0 at enough risk of showing these issues under these circumstances to worry about searching for a bulletproofed truck/avoiding 6.0's all together or would one of these trucks be a safe bet. I am capable of doing pretty much any sort of repairs i'd need to if one of the main issues reared it's head but as a college student the financial consequences of one of these issues showing might be a bit of an issue for me. Any help is much appreciated.
TL:DR - I've heard nightmare tales of 6.0 reliability and want to know if these issues are going to critically fail under extremely light duty use and commuting
Alright guys. I’ve had this f-250 for just under 2 years and put around 30k on it. Tow minimally, grandpa driven. This last Thursday I went and filled up my tank and the truck was running fine, I did fill up at a different gas station then normal because options are limited at 4am on my way to work.
Skip forward to Saturday I hauled a 8x12’ trailer full of a dead tree to the dump, but it wasn’t really to heavy and could barely tell it was there; the truck was still running good. Parked the truck when I got home and it sat for a few hours before I needed to run some errands, then the issues began.
The truck during acceleration would hit about 1700 rpm and about 10 psi of boost and would act like it’s redlining (aka a machine gun going down the road) and wouldn’t go any faster or anymore rpm. Once the truck was up to temp the issue went away. I chalked it up as a bad ebp sensor and vowed to fix it this coming weekend. Dealt with that intermittent issue and drove the truck carefully Sunday and Monday.
Tuesday the truck nearly left me stranded about a mile from my house at a d.g and would proceed past 1400rpm. This morning I went to crank it to let it warm up and the truck would turn over, start then lope very aggressively from 300rpm to about 800 rpm about twice then shut off. Plumes of white smelly smoke.
I monitor it for head gaskets constantly and they’re still going good (no super pressurized cooling system, no water loss, no high eot or ect). Truck hasn’t thrown any codes nor has the water in fuel or limp mode light come on. Wtf is wrong with this dang thing?
Hey this is my first Reddit post! I was thinking to myself about engine swapping my 1995 Ford Ranger to a 5.0 or a 5.8 small block and they'll fit I've measured the engine bay twice. Then when I was about to do the swap I was watching diesel trucks rolling coal on YouTube which got me thinking. If a 5.8 small block can fit why can't a 6.0 Powerstroke fit as well (I do know the 6.0 Powerstroke is a big block but hear me out). Ever since I've come up with the crazy swap idea and told people about it they've all said it'll be a hard swap but worth it afterwards. My current budget is $10,000 to get a complete truck with a 6.0 Powerstroke engine. What do you guys think about my crazy idea and leave your opinion in the comments.
Hello my name is David my brother bought a 2004 6.0 powerstroke and when we picked it up it was blowing heavy white smoke and will pop every few seconds so we loaded it up on the trailer and got it home and when we tried to start it it made a loud clunck sound we think is hydro locked and cylinder #7 exhaust manifold is covered in fuel or cooling it has head studs and egr delete and a 4 inch exhaust could the problem be #7 injecter stuck open and folded the truck and hydro lock it
Looking to build a single cap drag/race truck and I’m deciding between the 5.9 12v and the 6.0 powerstroke. Which do you guys think has more potential?
So I rebuilt my motor on my 2003 6.0 powerstroke, bulletproofed with headstuds at 250k, not sure if my guy did the oil cooler though. ISO things to do to increase the Longevity. What’s the best oil to use, fuel additives, etc. any tips or tricks at all are welcomed. All the old Ford forums are from years ago and I’m looking to get some fresh insight. Thanks y’all!
So, I recently acquired this beauty. She has been very healthy overall, but for the past few months I have encountered an issue. The truck runs perfect, but throws a P0401 code for the EGR valve. I had the valve changed out about a month after purchase by Ford house( I didn't have time to work on it in the moment don't hate me). However, the code has returned. Any insight would be welcome.
As an aside the truck is "bulletproofed" and has a bulletproof EGR cooler currently.
just rebuilt the hole to of the motor and put bigger nozzle why I had them out I put all new o-rings on them.
Put a brand new factory updated oil cooler and fresh oil and filter.
Put brand new fuel filter in the primary and secondary fuel filter.
New Rudy’s dummy plugs and Standpipe.
New head gasket and studs.
Put a new screen on the ipr valve.
Sct x4 tuner with 3 custom tunes
Clean the turbo.
2 New battery
Has a egr delete
Ficm is 48v Ficm logic power is 11 Icp reads 1400ish Rpm is 175 when I crank the motor over. Can’t read ipr on my tuner
I just rebuilt all 8 of my injecter in my 6.0 powerstroke and I don’t know if I put the spool valve in the right way when I try to crank the truck it just crank and crank wil not start if you spry a little bite of either in the air filter it wants to start so my question is would putting the spool value in wrong would this happen I put 90hp injecter nozzle in and plug the spill ports
Found one for sale w 150k miles for $8K. I have a budget of around $3K to make it more reliable including labor. Currently fully stock. I can spend up to $5K but I’d like to stay in the 3K range. What should I get? Thanks.
I have another brilliant idea same idea but different in many ways. Ok let me first say the 1995 Ford Ranger has been needed by my dad for a daily driver which isn't the worst but it still sucks. Ok let's he to the idea of mine... a 1989 Ford Ranger and a 1989 Jeep Cherokee put together and modified to make a 1989 4 door Ford Ranger with the 6.0 Powerstroke. I've always noticed the similarities between the 1989 Ford Ranger and the 1989 Jeep Cherokee for many years and finally got a amazing idea to put the 2 beloved creations together in probably the worst way possible but fuck it. It's my life and I choose the way I live it.
2005 6.0 New tube, new sensor. Koeo I’m getting 50 psi, Running Im at 60 psi
I’ve cleaned the turbo and vgt solenoid. The solenoid is working. Baro and Map all read out. The wiring all checked out with a meter. Has anyone had this issue before or any ideas? Thanks.
Hello I just rebuilt all 8 of my injecter in my 6.0 powerstroke and I don’t know if I put the spool valve in the right way when I try to crank the truck it just crank and crank wil not start if you spry a little bite of either in the air filter it wants to start so my question is would putting the spool value in wrong would this happen I put 90hp injecter nozzle in and plug the spill ports